Sabato De Sarno Named Creative Director at Icicle
Icicle, the Shanghai and Paris-based fashion house recognized for its pristine, minimalist designs and integrated production methods, has officially named Sabato De Sarno as its new creative director. This strategic appointment positions De Sarno to guide the brand's aesthetic vision across all product categories, from ready-to-wear to accessories and eyewear. His inaugural collection for Icicle is eagerly anticipated, scheduled for release in the Fall/Winter 2027 season. This move underscores a burgeoning trend in the global fashion landscape, where established European design expertise converges with the dynamic growth of Asian fashion enterprises.
Sabato De Sarno Embraces New Chapter with Icicle, Fostering East-West Fashion Collaboration
Shanghai, China – In a significant development for the global fashion industry, Sabato De Sarno has been appointed Creative Director of Icicle, a distinguished Chinese fashion brand with a strong presence in both Shanghai and Paris. The announcement, shared with Vogue Business on a recent Monday, marks a pivotal moment for the brand, founded by Ye Shouzeng and Shawna Tao nearly three decades ago. De Sarno, an Italian designer with an illustrious career, will assume comprehensive creative oversight for Icicle's women's and men's ready-to-wear lines, as well as accessories and eyewear. His first collection is set to debut for Fall/Winter 2027.
Ye Shouzeng, CEO and co-founder of Icicle, emphasized the brand's long-standing commitment to connecting humanity with nature through timeless fashion. He expressed that this vision is best realized by integrating global creative talent with Icicle's profound cultural heritage and robust industrial capabilities in China, underscoring De Sarno's appointment as a crucial step in this direction.
De Sarno brings a wealth of experience to his new role. Prior to joining Icicle, he served as the Creative Director for Gucci, the largest brand under Kering, from January 2023 to February 2025. Before his tenure at Gucci, he spent over a decade at Valentino, where he ascended to the position of fashion director, overseeing both male and female collections. His early career also included a period at Dolce & Gabbana before joining Valentino in 2009.
Beyond his design roles, De Sarno recently showcased his curatorial talents at this year's Salone del Mobile. He orchestrated "Insieme," an exhibition at Piscina Cozzi in collaboration with the Italian edition of Vanity Fair. This showcase featured original designs from 12 esteemed Italian artisanal companies, including the high-end textile company Rubelli from Venice and the historic luxury glassmaker Venini, renowned for its Murano glass. The exhibition's facade was further enhanced by an installation created with French artist JR, featuring portraits of the 79 artisans involved in the project. In a pre-exhibition interview with Vogue Runway's Tiziana Cardini, De Sarno articulated his professional philosophy, stating, "I'm not looking for something big or small; I'm looking for the right place for me."
Icicle is a key component of the ICCF Group, which also encompasses the French fashion brand Carven. The brand operates on a unique dual creative model, with studios in both Paris and Shanghai, and boasts over 200 stores globally, including flagship locations in major cities like Beijing, Shanghai, and Paris. Bénédicte Laloux, who has been instrumental in shaping Icicle's womenswear creative identity since 2013, will continue in her role as design director for the women's show collection, now working under De Sarno's overarching creative direction.
De Sarno's move to Icicle also subtly rekindles his ties with Kering, albeit on a limited basis. Earlier this year, Kering CEO Luca de Meo announced the group's minority investment in Icicle. De Meo articulated Kering's strategic interest at the group's Capital Markets Day in April, stating that the investment aims to foster a deeper connection with China and gain insights into the Chinese ecosystem through local partnerships.
This appointment is emblematic of a broader trend seeing prominent artistic directors from major European luxury brands collaborating with Asian fashion companies. Notable examples include Francesco Risso with GU (Fast Retailing), Kim Jones with Areal (Bosideng), Kris Van Assche with Chinese sportswear giant Anta, Daniel Fletcher with Mithridate, and Clare Waight Keller with Uniqlo. De Sarno himself articulated his attraction to Icicle, stating, "I've always been fascinated by design beyond the final product, from the origins of raw materials to the craftsmanship that shapes them." He highlighted the profound resonance between Icicle's principles and his own creative philosophy, particularly the brand's nearly 30-year exploration of harmony between humans and nature, a concept he finds increasingly relevant today.
Sabato De Sarno's appointment at Icicle represents a significant new chapter for both the designer and the brand. It not only promises to elevate Icicle's global profile and creative direction but also signals a continued strengthening of collaborative ties between established European luxury fashion expertise and the rapidly evolving Asian fashion market. This cross-cultural exchange holds the potential to inspire innovative design philosophies and sustainable practices, pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion. For the industry at large, it underscores the growing recognition of Asian markets as vital centers of creativity and influence, offering fresh opportunities for designers to explore new narratives and operational models that prioritize both aesthetic excellence and ethical production.
