Kiko Kostadinov: Blending History and Future in Womenswear
The Kiko Kostadinov label is instantly recognizable for its distinctive aesthetic, featuring garments with unique tailoring, geometric designs, and subtle nods to various historical periods, from the Renaissance to the 1940s atomic age. This design philosophy creates a sense of unfamiliar fantasy, interwoven with familiar elements that evoke nostalgia. For example, a bomber jacket might be reimagined with triangular, modern epaulets and a central panel, while a V-neck cardigan maxi dress could include detachable oversized sleeves and a dual-color hood. These innovative pieces were prominently featured in the brand's fall/winter 2026 runway collection.
Originally established as a menswear brand in 2016 by Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov, the label expanded into womenswear two years later under the creative direction of Australian twin sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning. Just prior to their October 5th show at Paris Fashion Week, the duo, who are Central Saint Martins graduates, finalized their spring/summer 2027 collection in their London studio. Deanna described the new collection as 'clean and graphic,' a departure from their previous seasons, which explored complex silhouettes and transparencies. They consider this collection their unique interpretation of minimalism. The sisters, who have always collaborated, found their distinct strengths complementing each other: Deanna specializes in knitwear, while Laura focuses on silhouette. Both share a deep interest in textiles, color, and accessories, which are crucial in conveying the brand's vision and the identity of the woman they design for. Their upbringing in Australia, where they wore school uniforms, partly inspired their passion for footwear, leading to significant collaborations with brands like ASICS. Their Italian grandparents also instilled in them an appreciation for fine craftsmanship, recalling a time when Italian-made clothing and shoes were a rare luxury in Australia.
Today, Kiko Kostadinov's womenswear line boasts a dedicated following among artists and intellectuals who appreciate its unconventional approach. The brand's signature look often includes unique trousers, flat shoes, and textured knitwear, characterized by a blend of utilitarianism and a sci-fi sensibility derived from the twins' master's collections. This distinctive aesthetic resonates strongly with their audience, who are open to styles that defy traditional norms. Laura notes that their intention is often to 'disorient' wearers, challenging their perceptions and offering a transformative experience through clothing, which can feel simultaneously medieval and futuristic without resorting to mere costuming. For the upcoming season, the designers are aiming for a more direct approach, inspired by visual artist Nanda Vigo's use of light to define space, intending to translate this concept onto the body and make the beautifully unfamiliar feel intuitive.
