From Womenswear to Tailored Dreams: A Bespoke Journey
This narrative chronicles a fashion journalist's unexpected pivot from the vibrant world of womenswear to the refined domain of men's tailoring. Initially skeptical of traditional suiting, the author's perspective transformed after observing the effortless style of male colleagues at European fashion events. This shift ignited a desire for a custom-made suit, leading to an immersive experience with a renowned Savile Row tailor, marking a significant evolution in both personal style and professional focus. The journey underscores the timeless elegance and practical versatility of bespoke garments.
The author's foray into menswear began abruptly upon accepting a new editorial role. A decade dedicated to womenswear trends was swiftly replaced by an assignment to Pitti Uomo, a prominent menswear trade show in Florence. There, amidst a throng of flamboyantly dressed attendees, the initial perception of suiting as archaic and dull began to dissipate. The true revelation, however, occurred during the subsequent menswear shows in Milan, where male colleagues showcased an impressive ability to mix and match limited tailored pieces for diverse occasions, sparking an interest in the efficiency and sophistication of a well-crafted suit.
Inspired by this newfound appreciation, the author sought to commission a bespoke piece. The choice fell upon Caroline Andrew, a Savile Row tailor encountered at a Pitti dinner. Andrew's unique approach, which balances traditional craftsmanship with a contemporary fashion sensibility, proved ideal. Unlike many established Savile Row houses with rigid house styles, Andrew's willingness to collaborate and her growing female clientele, including notable figures like jewelry designer Jessica McCormack and gallerist Louisa Guinness, underscored her adaptability and modern outlook. Clients value her ability to create pieces that serve as a chic, sharp 'uniform,' ensuring effortless elegance from day to night.
Opting for a tuxedo for formal events, the author embarked on a six-month bespoke process, a significant investment given that fully handmade suits begin around £5,000 (approximately $6,600). The meticulous journey involved selecting fabrics, lapel styles, and trouser cuts, with the author deferring to Andrew's expertise to navigate the myriad options. The initial fitting involved extensive measurements and discussions, laying the groundwork for a double-breasted tuxedo crafted from black wool barathea with silk-satin peak lapels and straight-leg trousers featuring satin tape.
Months later, during a follow-up fitting in New York, the evolving tuxedo revealed the intricate artistry and rigorous training inherent in bespoke tailoring. The visible stitch patterns and horsehair 'canvas' highlighted the garment's foundational structure, designed to mold to the wearer's form over time, ensuring a perfect drape and longevity. Andrew's own path, from her degree at the London College of Fashion to internships at prestigious houses like Burberry, exemplifies the dedication required to excel in a historically male-dominated industry. The finished tuxedo, presented in mid-September, exceeded expectations, offering a timeless piece that promises enduring style and a distinct individuality, a sentiment echoed by other bespoke enthusiasts who cherish the unique personal touches their tailored garments afford.
Reflecting on this transformative experience, the author notes a profound shift in career and personal style. The fast-paced fashion week circuit has been replaced by the more grounded world of interior design, where tailored attire now plays a significant role, particularly as seasons change. Curiously, the process of dressing has become more enjoyable since fashion transitioned from a full-time profession to a personal pursuit. This renewed pleasure is attributed not only to the inherent ease of well-tailored garments but also to the excitement of embracing a novel sartorial challenge.
