1988: A Curated Fashion Archive in Paris
In 1988, while iconic designers such as Miuccia Prada, Helmut Lang, and Raf Simons were making significant strides in the fashion world, another chapter began with the births of Maël Larcher (née Lee Young-Kyoon) and Xiaoyu Jiang. This pivotal year became the namesake for their Parisian archive showroom, '1988,' a treasure trove of exceptional pieces from these influential creators and more. Since mid-June, the couple has welcomed visitors, by appointment, to their tranquil, luminous space situated above the bustling Quai des Grands Augustins, with views of Notre Dame, offering a distinctive approach to fashion archiving.
Paris is renowned for its showrooms and luxury resale venues, yet '1988' distinguishes itself through its specific focus and carefully selected inventory. Their collection, comprising approximately 2,000 items, blends high-fashion designs with American vintage, available for both rental and purchase. Among their holdings are rare Helmut Lang wool jackets with Tyrolean accents, so unique that they are reluctant to part with them. A notable piece, Phoebe Philo's Yves Klein Blue body print dress from Celine's Spring 2017 collection, is displayed as a work of art. The archive also boasts a pair of Malcolm McLaren pants, a cherished possession gifted by Kim Jones. Beyond these key designers, the collection features pieces from Christophe Lemaire, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Jil Sander (from the Raf era), and a distinct Louis Vuitton x Rei Kawakubo bag. Their American vintage selection spans from 1930s brands like Sweet-Or to iconic 1950s and 60s names such as Russell, Flagg, Champion, and Mayo Spruce, including highly sought-after Charlie Brown 'Peanuts' graphic sweatshirts with impeccable flat lock seams.
Maël Larcher, with a decade of experience at Dior Homme, brings a meticulous eye for detail to their curation. His journey from an intern with Kris Van Assche to a designer in Kim Jones’s studio shaped his expertise. Xiaoyu Jiang, originally from a traditional Chinese family, found her passion for fashion upon moving to Paris to study marketing, describing it as an eye-opening experience. Their venture began organically, evolving from their personal collections and a shared 'obsession' for unique pieces, which they initially lent to stylist and designer friends before formalizing it into a business. They recognize that different individuals interpret the same garment in varied ways—some appreciating the fabric, others the color, or specific design elements. While they discreetly note instances where their rented items seem to inspire new runway designs, particularly in menswear, they view this as a source of pride, confirming their role as a valuable resource within the fashion industry.
The couple continues to seek more pieces from Helmut Lang’s Austrian period, especially those with embroidery, and always more Raf Simons. They've built a robust network of collectors and vendors, prioritizing trusted sources to mitigate the risk of fakes. Their storytelling approach, evident in their thoughtfully curated Instagram presence, further sets them apart. Each item is tagged with intricate details, and rental pieces are subtly marked with cedar wood flowers. They describe their aesthetic as "grown-up" with an inclination towards outdoorsy themes, reflecting their personal interests and evolution. Though their attachment to certain pieces has shifted over time, they see their current endeavor as a new phase, happily letting go of items that no longer align with their evolving vision. During fashion week, they plan to relax their appointment-only policy and collaborate with vintage furniture curators, aspiring to partner with other specialists who share their dedication to preserving and presenting historical design. They are aware that their work might be known to their idols, and Xiaoyu Jiang, in particular, dreams of Madame Prada visiting their archive, recognizing the significant connection they all share to 1988—a year that Larcher considers a meaningful symbol.
